Public transit gay men cruising
Only once did I receive a different response. It’s what all Israelis say when I reveal the scandal of my address: “ Hardcore.”
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Yona laughs and repeats it back, “ Hardcore.” He cocks his head, not sure of where this is. He asks where I live and I say, “Levinsky Street.” We say hi, I tousle Yona’s hair, and his father asks me where I’m off to.Įven though I’m on my way to the Central Station, I tell them I’m headed home, since I live a couple of blocks away from the station anyway. I’m a preschool teacher at an English nursery school in the city’s north, and one of my students, three-year-old Yona, pulls up next to me on a bicycle ridden by his father, Yuval. On the way, I bump into a couple of acquaintances from work. I am heading toward part of the other 92.5 percent. But even though most tourists and many natives think of Tel Aviv in these terms, the borders of the Geddes Plan comprise a miniscule 7.5 percent of the city. He wanted to make Tel Aviv a garden city and, in many ways, he succeeded. His design was to emphasize the rights of pedestrians over the domination of the automobile, create green spaces, and encourage civic unity through the creation of large, beautiful public areas. It’s a tribute to its designer, Sir Patrick Geddes, a Scottish city planner who, in 1925, began work on a master plan for Tel Aviv. At this moment, everything around me feels quintessentially Tel Aviv. All around are young people walking with designer dogs and afternoon coffee drinkers, surrounded by lovely open spaces and exquisite greenery.
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Its median strip is nothing less than an expansive, vertical park for bikers, pedestrians, and bench sitters drawn by the dappled sunlight filtering through the fichus trees.
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Chen Boulevard stretches between Ha’Bimah and Rabin Squares, two of the city’s most recognizable public spaces. Where I am now is one of my favorite streets in the city. I’ve just left work and am on my way to a private tour of Tel Aviv’s Central Bus Station, a very different place from where I am now. Photos: Aviram Valdman I’m walking up Chen Boulevard in central Tel Aviv on an especially gorgeous April day. The grungy, grimy, glorious Central Bus Station is the most fascinating building in Tel Aviv. Seuss playground, and part post-apocalyptic trading post.